BTW

Went surfing yesterday out near Linda Mar.

Gorgeous!

JP was supposed to go w/ me but got sidelined by an old groin injury. Yeah 30’s!

Anyways was a bizarre day. Upper 90’s at the beach w/ Sahara like breezes and probably 40’s in the water. Maybe the coldest water I have ever been in. Very strange. My hands turned purple almost immediately and I only could take several waves on my head before the crushing ice cream headaches turned me back to shore.

Also there was this, due to the weather I guess, a biblical swarm of flies and the occasional moth, in the thousands out in the water. Seemingly stretching for miles. (I’m aware I write the occasional sentence fragment.) Very eery. And they weren’t the pesky little sand flies. They were the big juicy house fly type. This other surfer and I just looked at each w/ our purple hands raised out of the water, as if to say, “it’s been a good life”, half expecting the sea to turn to red or a giant vortex to shoot out of the water.

But I’ve gone on to live another day. Had a few solid rides, but the waves, although always looking good from shore, never seem to break good there once you’re out there.

And I also met this 23-year-old little Gidget on the shore who was looking after my stuff as I tackled the icy waves. Super pretty. Super young. A stomach as taught and brown as leather. She be hot.

I guess I am prepping myself for Man Cougar-dom. Or maybe I’m turning into the McChaunehey (sp? for fuck’s sake???) role. “Love them high school girls.” Though I seem to be finding my niche w/ the 5th year college seniors.

We are planning to meet up w/in a few weeks for our own little surf trip. We’ll see if I get on that. So to speak